Wilson’s Orchard & Farm thrives in Des Moines

Five months after officially opening its Des Moines location, Iowa City-based Wilson’s Orchard & Farm is making a splash. “We were busy,” said co-owner Paul Rasch, of opening day. “The reception that day and going forward has been remarkably good. We've been extremely happy with how things are going.” The new farm, located off of Interstate 35 at 3201 15th Ave. in Cumming – a town just south of Des Moines – opened April 12 and is set on 115 acres. Of those, 30 acres are reserved for rotational grazing livestock, while the rest have been cultivated for you-pick fruit trees, berries, pumpkins and flowers. Mr. Rasch and his wife and co-owner, Sarah Goering, are enthusiastic about the prime location of their new agrifarm. “We're super excited about the location, because it sits right off I-35,” said Mr. Rasch, highlighting the ease of access that played a pivotal role in their decision. The business prioritized both convenience and accessibility, making it a quick 10-minute drive for visitors from Des Moines to reach their farm. In addition to the agricultural aspect, Wilson’s Orchard also opened the Ciderhouse Restaurant & Bar, the Farm Market, and a private event center, which has slots already filling up for next year. Additionally, live music has also played an integral part of the Des Moines location’s experience. “The restaurant in particular has really seemed to strike a nerve here. We've been very, very pleased with the reception for the food that we're making,” said Mr. Rasch. Former Wilson’s Orchard chef and three-time James Beard semifinalist Matt Steigerwald helped oversee the initiation of the bakery and restaurant in Des Moines, but left a month after the location opened. Mr. Rasch said his signature chef’s departure was mitigated by the extensive planning that occurred beforehand. “The recipes were laid down (and) the whole format was already kind of baked in,” he said. “We continue to revise the menu…when we started off, we were focused on the restaurant side with just pizzas and and some apps. Now we've expanded the menu to include burgers and other sandwiches, as well as some entrees. So there's always stuff evolving.” Taking over as chef of the Des Moines restaurant is long-time employee Lenny Trapane, and Kagen Lewis assumed operations of the Iowa City restaurant. “Lenny and Kagen were basically running Des Moines and Iowa City, respectively,” said Mr. Rasch. “Matt was just sort of overseeing them, as well as the bakery and stuff like that.” The Des Moines' Farm Market offers a selection nearly identical to its Iowa City counterpart, though some variations exist due to the discretion of its farm manager, according to Mr. Rasch. The bakery will feature the same fresh favorites, including pies, turnovers and donuts. Wilson’s Orchard continues to import hard and sweet cider from the Iowa City location, but is setting the stage for future production in Des Moines. “We're set up to produce cider here, but most of our cider is still produced in Iowa City,” he said. Next year will see the introduction of livestock, with chickens, sheep and possibly cattle set to make their debut in the spring.

Limited crop spurs creativity

Three years after planting apple trees, the orchard in Des Moines is now yielding its first small crop. To protect the young trees from overharvesting, Wilson’s Orchard has launched a more structured and educational experience for visitors.

“(We’re) sampling apples out in the orchard, and then people can pick a limited amount,” he said. Visitors pay an admission or tour fee, which allows them to pick a set amount of apples as part of their ticket. Along the way, they receive detailed information on how apples are planted and the various types grown at the orchard. Participants also have the opportunity to sample different varieties that are in season. "That's been really popular," Mr. Rasch noted, highlighting the success of the new, more educational approach.

Middlebrook agrihood

Wilson’s Des Moines location will be part of a larger agrihood in Cumming called Middlebrook, which is rapidly developing. Just shy of 900 acres, the concept began taking shape five years ago, and single-family homes and townhomes are already cropping up. Mr. Rasch said he has been working with Middlebrook founder Steve Bruere and developer Diligent Development.

“It's going to dramatically increase the size of the town of Cumming,” he said, and has since moved past his initial misgivings about the magnitude of the project after receiving positive feedback. “I couldn't be happier with what we're seeing so far,” he said. “The site has worked out really well… I think it’s been really well received, and I think it's been very rewarding to see it unfold.” He’s eager to see the new location become stabilized and settled, and has been busy hiring and training new staff, as well as streamlining the farm’s operations. “The first year is a little tumultuous,” he said. “It’s a little rough around the edges.” He spoke enthusiastically about the construction of a play area for kids in both locations. “We haven't done a ton with agro entertainment yet…sort of traditional stuff for kids to actually go out and play in, so this will be kind of a new chapter for us,” he said. With the farm’s offerings of flowers and berries in the spring and summer, pumpkins and apples in the fall, and the restaurant and live music year-round, Mr. Rasch is hoping Wilson’s Orchard & Farm will become a year-round destination for Des Moines families. “People do seem to come back,” he said. “It may not be every week, but certainly more than once a year, people seem to be coming out for the various crops at various times, and even just for music on a Sunday or something like that. It's very accessible.”